Independent field guides · Eastern Himalaya This month Send a correction
Independent field guides · Eastern Himalaya

Eastern Himalaya, honestly mapped.

Route guides, weather windows, safety briefs and month-by-month plans — researched on foot and rewritten before every season.

Free to read. We don't sell trips, and we name the routes we've walked and the ones we haven't.

The year-round guide

Where to go in October

Every month has something. We publish what's actually open, what the weather really does, and where it's worth being — including the months other sites tell you to stay home.

Conditions

Mountain visibility
Rainfall
Crowds

Worth going now

Conditions describe typical patterns for Sikkim, Darjeeling and the Dooars. Mountain weather doesn't read averages — check local forecasts and forest department notices before you travel.

The route library

Routes, graded honestly

Most sites grade a trek by how far you walk. That tells you almost nothing about whether it will hurt. We grade on altitude, daily ascent, consecutive days and how easily you can get off the mountain.

How we grade

Four factors, applied the same way to every route on the site. Difficulty is a single scale with three grades — nothing is two grades at once. When a trek sits on the boundary we publish the harder one, because the cost of underestimating a mountain is higher than the cost of overestimating it.

Maximum altitude

Above 3,500 m, fitness stops being the limiting factor and acclimatisation takes over.

Daily ascent

Metres gained per day predicts suffering far better than kilometres walked.

Consecutive days

Day four is where most people discover what their body actually thinks of this.

Escape options

How long it takes to reach a road if something goes wrong — hours, or days.

Read the full grading rubric
The safety desk

What actually goes wrong

Most trekking content treats safety as a paragraph near the end. We publish it as a section, because the things that hurt people in the eastern Himalaya are predictable, well documented, and almost never mentioned in a route listing.

Three rules that don't bend

01

Don't go higher with symptoms

Headache, nausea, breathlessness at rest, poor sleep. If they're present, that day's altitude is where you stay until they clear.

02

If it's getting worse, go down

Descent is the one treatment that reliably works. Not rest, not paracetamol, not pushing on to the next camp because it's only two hours away.

03

Nobody with symptoms walks alone

Altitude illness impairs judgement before it impairs walking. Someone going down needs a companion, not directions.

These three follow long-standing wilderness medicine guidance, including the Wilderness Medical Society's practice guidelines for acute altitude illness. They are also the three most commonly ignored.

Where altitude starts mattering

4,000 m and above

Grade 3 on our scale. Evacuation measured in days.

3,636 m — Sandakphu

The region's most-walked summit, and well past the threshold.

3,000 m

Above here, cap the gain in sleeping altitude to roughly 500 m a day.

2,500 m

Acute mountain sickness becomes a genuine risk from about here.

This is journalism, not medical advice. RoamWire is a publisher — we don't guide treks and we aren't clinicians. Altitude illness can become life-threatening quickly. Use this to ask better questions of a doctor, a qualified guide and your own judgement, not to replace any of them.

How we work

Where this information comes from

Most travel content is assembled from other travel content. Ours isn't, and you should be able to check that. Here is the process every route guide, month page and safety brief goes through before it appears on this site.

01

We walk it

A route guide is written by someone who has walked that route, in a season we name. If we haven't been, the page says so at the top rather than pretending otherwise.

02

We cross-check it

Permits, fees, closures and transport get verified against local guides, homestay hosts and the relevant forest or tourism department — not against another blog.

03

We date it

Every page carries the date it was last verified and the name of the person who did it. An undated trail description is a guess with confidence.

04

We go back

Routes are re-checked before each season. Bridges wash out, permit offices move, teahouses close. A guide written once and left alone stops being true within a year.

What we won't do

Shorter than the list of things we will, and more useful. These are commitments, not aspirations — hold us to them.

Publish a route we haven't walked. If a guide is compiled from other sources, it is labelled as such and it doesn't get a difficulty grade.
Recommend gear we haven't used. No round-ups assembled from retailer copy, and no scores for kit that has never left a shop.
Take payment for coverage. Nobody buys a mention, a score or a place in a list. Anything sponsored is labelled at the top, not the bottom.
Sell you a trip. We're a publisher. We don't run departures and we don't take a cut of anyone else's, so our advice has nothing riding on where you go.

Corrections

Conditions change faster than we can walk. If you've been somewhere recently and found us out of date, that's the most valuable message we can receive.

Every page has a "something wrong here?" link

Corrections are checked, applied, and credited to whoever sent them unless they'd rather stay anonymous. We log what changed and when, at the foot of the page.

Festivals & events

The calendar nobody keeps

Most of these follow a lunar calendar, so they land on different dates every year — which is precisely why you'll find last year's dates still sitting on other sites. We track them, and we say plainly when a date hasn't been announced yet.

What the scale means

We mark size honestly, because a festival worth crossing the country for and one worth a detour are different decisions.

MajorRegional shutdown. Transport and accommodation book out weeks ahead.
RegionalDraws visitors from across the state. Worth building a trip around.
Village scaleA few hundred people, mostly local. Go quietly and ask before photographing.

Dates we haven't confirmed

A lunar festival's date is often announced only a few weeks ahead by the monastery holding it. We publish the window, then replace it with the confirmed date — and we never leave last year's showing.

Open the full calendar
Trip reports

The routes we haven't walked

There are far more trails in this corner of the Himalaya than one team can cover. If you've walked something we haven't — or found our page out of date — your report becomes a page on this site, under your name.

Routes we don't cover

Anything outside our published library. Small trails, local circuits, the walk from a village nobody writes about. These are the pages that don't exist anywhere yet.

Most wanted

Trips that turned back

Weather, illness, a closed road, a bad decision caught in time. Almost nobody publishes these, which is exactly why they're the most useful thing a reader can find.

Rarely written

Off-season conditions

What a trail is actually like in July, or in the last week of February. Everyone publishes the peak-season version. Nobody reports the other nine months.

Fills a gap

What we'd need from you

No polished writing required. We edit for clarity, never for tone, and nothing gets published without you seeing it first.

The route, and the dates you walked it — the season matters more than anything else you'll tell us
Where you slept, what it cost, and whether you'd do it again
Anything that surprised you, went wrong, or contradicted what you'd read beforehand
Photos if you have them. Phone pictures are fine — we'd rather have honest ones than good ones
01

You send it

A form, an email, voice notes — whatever's easiest. Rough is fine.

02

We check and edit

We verify what we can, ask you about anything unclear, and send the draft back.

03

It publishes under your name

With your byline, your photo if you want one, and a link wherever you'd like it pointed.

You keep the copyright to your words and photographs. We ask for permission to publish them here and to keep them online while the page is live — nothing more. We don't pay for reports yet, and we'd rather say that plainly than imply otherwise.

The newsletter

One letter, sent before you need it

Planning happens weeks ahead of travelling. So the letter goes out at the start of each month, covering the month after next — while there's still time to do something about it.

What's open and what's shut next month — permits, park closures, routes worth avoiding
Guides published since the last letter, and which existing pages we re-walked
Corrections we made — including the ones we got wrong, named plainly
One quiet place from the Silence Index, with the score and why it earned it

Twelve letters a year, no more. Unsubscribe in one click, from any of them. We don't sell or share your address, and we don't email you about anything else.

Prefer something faster? Route conditions and closures go out on our WhatsApp channel as we hear them.

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